Tuesday 31 August 2010

Aug 29, Day 65

Hachita, NM to Antelope Wells, NM and the U.S. / Mexico Border!!!

Distance - 45.5 miles, Av speed - 11.1 mph

We set the alarm for 6am as we told Bill we would be at the border at noon. It is still dark at 6am however so we take our time getting ready. Sam comes out and instigates yet another round of coffee. We feel sad packing up the tents for the last time, although by now, we can do it with our eyes closed. The road down to the border climbs around 300ft and there is a bit of a headwind just to make it a bit more challenging. We wave farewell to Sam and Bear and promise to send him a photo when we get home.

As yesterday the road is quiet, except for the constant stream of border patrol cars. We don’t see any rattlesnakes, but do see a couple of turtles, both of which we pick up and put on the side of the road in case they get squished by the border patrols, and one of which pees on Numb Stuff as he picks it up – how ungrateful.

 There are a number of vultures circling overhead and Numb Stuff gets a great photo when they land. We have heard so many horror stories about the border area, i.e. drug barons and illegal immigrants, but the reality is that it actually feels like the safest road in the USA due to all the patrols and cameras. There are no discarded backpacks or clothing along the roadside. However, we do see a tarantula cross the road which adds a soupcon of excitement to the day. And a dead cow and a dead fox.

Numb Stuff takes photos of the last 10 mile markers, then finally the border station comes into sight. The border station is small, only dealing with around 5 cars a day plus the Mexican shuttle buses which go to Phoenix airport.

The border patrol staff warmly welcome us with a root beer popsicle and allow us to clean up a little before having our photos taken. Numb Stuff also rustles up a Mountain House lunch while we wait for Bill.

While we are waiting for Bill, a few shuttle buses pull up from Mexico and their occupants scrutinized by the border patrol. We are intrigued by the questions and actions of the border guards. For example, they pay close attention to the type of clothing worn. If it looks like it was bought in the US, then that means that it is likely that that person is already living illegally in the USA and is trying to get back in again, having popped back to Mexico to see family. Again, contents of wallets and pockets are examined in minute detail, in particular receipts. At least two Mexican are refused entry and have to cross back over the border with their suitcases to wait for the next bus back.

We start to play the game of guessing who is and who is not going to get in, giving thumbs up/down signals to each other! We give the thumbs down to one young guy, who looks nervous, but are surprised to see that he gets through. On chatting to the female guard, it appears that she shares our suspicions on the basis that according to his papers he has already spent a year in the USA but still speaks no English. However, she has been outvoted by the other two guards

Eventually Bill arrives, having been stopped twice by the border patrol cars, once for speeding and once for peeing by the side of the road. Takes a while to lose bike habits! We are joyfully reunited and catch up with his story of how his ride ended. He takes us back to Silver City, where we check into the historic Palace Hotel (built in the 1800s) and go out to celebrate with beer and margaritas. It is probably a good job the ride has ended, for the three of us no longer have inhibitions, brain or mental discipline.

This ride will never be forgotten – the journey has imprinted itself permanently into our spirits and minds. Big thanks especially to Deb for patiently updating our blog from fragmented emails, to Julie for riding with us in Montana, Judy & Deb for being support crew in Montana and to everybody out there who has been following us on a daily basis. Bikes have been broken down, packed up and are ready to go home

This is not the end, only the beginning… there will be more adventures in future- watch this space! Hopefully we have inspired people that you are never too old to do this sort of trip and anything is possible with a little determination.

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