June 27, Day 2

The day started at 7:20am with fresh coffee brewed on the jet boil coffee press. The jet boil is a fantastic device – everyone should have one in the camping/earthquake kit! Boils a pint of water in less than 2 minutes. We had breakfast with the deer, who were willing us to leave them some tidbits. They seemed to have no fear of humans, not a good move in a state where the number one outdoor activity is hunting.

We had a glorious downhill for about 3 miles punctuated by our first flat. Dirtbaby’s bike, Sherman took one for the team, with a split tire which meant not only the tube had to be replaced but we also had to figure out a patch job for the tire. Fortunately, this fix seems to have held, and we are hoping this holds until
we visit the Whitefish bike shop ( yet again!) tomorrow.


We cycled through some incredible scenery including an area which was badly hit by forest fires, but which seems to be regenerating itself quite quickly. Still no sign of bears, just a teeny gopher snake. Today was a short day because we decided to detour 5.5 miles off route to a bakery, Polebridge Mercantile which we had been told just had to be the best bakery in the world. When cinnamon rolls were mentioned, Dirtbaby insisted on the detour. Great decision as the bakery had some of the best baked goods we have ever seen, including not only plain cinnamon rolls, but apple cinnamon rolls, huckleberry cinnamon rolls and walnut and frosting cinnamon rolls. They also bake their own specialty breads, such as spinach & blue cheese twisted in French bread dough. As we arrived here at 1.30, we seem to have visited the bakery at least 6 times so far, for purchases such as microbrew beers, cookies, wine, spaghetti sauce, oh and a single tampon, what a lifesaver!

We have got us a little cabin which has no electricity, no running water, actually it is really a shed with a couple of beds in, but it will do, as it will save us packing the tent tomorrow and filtering water. The nearest toilet is a real stinker though, the smell of ammonia stings your eyes as you open the door. Curiously, there is a pile of reading magazines provided, like as if! Luckily there is a more fragrant toilet a bit further away.

This 5.5 mile diversion will cost us dearly tomorrow, as it is a steep climb back up to where we turned off, plus there is another 10 mile gradual climb up to Red Meadow. The elevation profile also shows some small blips which appear to be vertical – surely a mistake? In total we will climb from 3,600 to just over 5,500 ft. At least the bakery opens at 7am so we can stock up with some more cinnamon rolls for the journey.