July 25 - Day 30

Pinedale, WY to Pine Creek (Informal Campground) - 80.3 miles, Avg Speed - 9.6 mph

The night before, Harry (now without Sally) sticks his head round our door to say hi. Sally had to leave at Jackson so she could go back to work. Harry is now riding with a friend but needs to wait for the post office to open on Monday so is staying another day in Pinedale.

As we set off, we wave to another lone cyclist, who is travelling superlight – just 2 rear panniers which are the size of front panniers. He gets a good head start on us, as at the last moment, we need to take a last minute bathroom stop. Well, this is the last time we will see a flush toilet in 3 days ….and we are feeling slightly nervous, as this is our first venture into the Great Divide Basin, a desert area which has no services and very little water. Most Divide riders cross this area in 4 days, but we are hoping to do it in 3.

The first 31 miles pass by like a breeze, as they are on pavement. Numb Stuff finds some road booty for Deb but we can now only take photos for her, rather than bringing it back for her. Soon, we are back on gravel, and enter into the Great Divide Basin. The route mostly follows the old wagon trails forged by pioneers heading west, and it is sobering to think that the landscape we are looking at has changed little in the 150 years since the wagons and handcarts passed through. There is nothing out here but sagebrush and a few bits of grass.

Things are progressing well, when suddenly Numb Stuff comes to an abrupt halt halfway up a hill. Uh-oh, he has his first flat on his rear wheel. We pull off the road, quickly flip over the bike and start repairs. Reassuringly, at least 3 cars stop to ask if we are OK and need help. Numb Stuff switches out the inner tube, and soon we are on our way again.

We stop for lunch at Little Sandy Creek, eating our left-over pizza from the night before. While we are munching, a group of 4 cyclists, all guys pulling bob trailers turn up but do not say anything other than hi. They make the decision to stop there and camp, but as it is only 2pm we decide to filter some water, and push on another 30 miles to the next campground. Other than splash in the creek and admire the cattle standing in it, there is not a lot else to do at these places .

The terrain becomes roller-coaster like. We cross the Continental Divide twice (#9 & #10) and also get to ride a mile and a half stretch right along the divide itself. This was amazing, being able to look down both sides. We make good time to the end of the gravel road. When we hit the highway, there is a rest stop just half a mile down the road. We visit this and it is so clean and nice we decide to cook dinner there, fill up with water, wash, brush our teeth, chill out, and use the toilets…. who knew there was so much you could do at a rest stop?

Suitably refreshed we cycle the last 7 miles to camp, where we meet the lone cyclist we waved off that morning, who is already camped there. His name is Bill, a nurse from North Carolina. Bill had been riding with Chip for a few days, before Chip abandoned him at Flagg Ranch. It is interesting how we build up a network of people doing the ride. Bill points out there is a full moon tonight – it makes for a great photo!